ten Bhomer, Marloes (2016) Research as object. In: Undesign symposium; 02 Jun 2016, Vienna, Austria.

Abstract

A Measurable Factor Sets the Conditions of its Operation is an ongoing research project and series of publicly exhibited materials Marloes ten Bhömer originally developed through the Stanley Picker Research Fellowship at Kingston University. With the project ten Bhömer rethinks the ways in which shoes are designed by shirking traditional approaches, instead employing a method based on the study of structural parameters – derived from anatomical and kinematic studies – required to support a high-heeled foot while in motion. The consequences of this research methodology are two-fold: By considering ‘the woman in motion’ as an engineering problem, ten Bhömer simultaneously expose the role heels play in the cultural construction of female identity while also considering the link between production methods, object typology and aesthetics. By purposefully displaying the project’s research journey rather than the final outcome(s), ten Bhömer is able to expand the modes of dissemination within her own practice, while also staking a new position for the field of footwear beyond the traditional (and disparate) realms of commercial fashion and academic scholarship.

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